Tree and Shrub Care: What to Do, When to Do It, and What Happens If You Don’t

Tree and shrub care is just the regular upkeep that keeps your plants alive, safe, and looking decent. It’s not complicated, but it’s easy to ignore until something drys up or dies.

It’s the kind of thing people forget about until a branch falls, or everything starts looking scraggly. But, if you stay on top of it, you avoid a lot of expensive problems down the road—and your yard doesn’t slowly turn into a mess.

A lot of people don’t think much about their trees and shrubs until something’s overgrown, dying, or causing problems. That’s when they start paying attention.

But by that point, you’re already playing catch-up. Most of the issues that pop up—broken limbs, dead branches, fungus, insect problems—they could’ve been avoided with basic maintenance. Not fancy treatments. Just a consistent plan.

This isn’t about perfect landscaping. It’s about keeping things healthy, safe, and not costing you more later. If you’re the kind of person who’d rather avoid expensive removals or surprise repairs, this stuff matters

So here’s what actual tree and shrub care looks like—what to do, when to do it, and what happens if you ignore it.

What Counts as Tree and Shrub Care

People usually think it just means trimming branches when they’re in the way. It’s more than that. Real care involves pruning, watering (yes, even for big trees), mulching (correctly, not in a big pile), maybe fertilizing depending on the plant, and keeping an eye out for pests or disease. It also means not doing dumb stuff, like cutting healthy limbs in the middle of summer or piling mulch against the trunk like a sandcastle.

Most of this can be done without hiring a professional if you’re paying attention and know what to watch for. Some of it should be handled by someone who knows what they’re doing—more on that later.

Pruning: Most People Do This Wrong

This is probably the most visible part of tree and shrub care, but it’s also where most of the damage happens. A bad cut can invite disease. Cutting at the wrong time can ruin the plant’s growth pattern or wipe out flowers for the season.

When to Prune – Tree and Shrub Care 101

For most trees and shrubs, late winter to early spring is the time to do it. The plant’s dormant, which makes it less stressful and gives wounds time to close before pests show up. But there are exceptions. Spring-flowering shrubs like lilac or viburnum—don’t touch them until right after they bloom. Otherwise, you’ll cut off next season’s flowers.

What to Cut

Dead, damaged, or diseased limbs—those go first. Then anything crossing or rubbing, water sprouts growing straight up, suckers near the base. You’re thinning out the plant so it can breathe, not hacking it into a shape you like. Think structure, not cosmetics.

Mistakes to Avoid

Don’t top trees. That means cutting off the main upper limbs. It shocks the tree and leads to weak regrowth. Don’t cut flush to the trunk either. Leave the branch collar. It helps seal the cut naturally. And never use dull or dirty tools. That’s how diseases spread.

Watering: Mature Trees Still Need It

A lot of people think once a tree is a few years old, it’s self-sufficient. Not true. Especially in dry summers. Roots might go deep, but they still need help when rainfall doesn’t cut it.

How Much to Water

A rough rule: 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. Water slowly and deeply, once or twice a month during dry periods. Less often if you’re getting steady rain. Shrubs need less, but more frequent watering, especially if they’re new.

How to Water

Forget the sprinkler. Use a hose or soaker to apply water directly at the root zone. Let it seep down. You want deep moisture, not wet leaves.

Signs of Trouble

Wilting, yellowing, leaf scorch, or early leaf drop can all mean your tree’s thirsty. But don’t overdo it either. Too much water can cause root rot. If the soil’s always soggy, that’s a problem too.

Mulching: Don’t Smother the Trunk

Mulch is helpful. But the way people apply it? Often makes things worse. That big mountain of mulch stacked up around the trunk? That’s called a mulch volcano, and it’s a great way to kill your tree.

How to Mulch Correctly

Two to three inches of mulch, spread out in a wide ring. Keep it a few inches back from the trunk. It should look like a donut, not a mound. Mulch helps retain moisture, reduce weeds, and regulate soil temperature. It’s simple. Just don’t bury the base of the plant.

What Happens If You Do It Wrong

Mulch too close to the trunk traps moisture and creates a perfect environment for rot and pests. You’ll also encourage shallow roots, which makes the plant more vulnerable to heat and wind.

Fertilizing: Only If It Needs It

Not all trees or shrubs need fertilizer. If the soil’s decent and the plant looks healthy, leave it alone. But if you’ve got weak growth, pale leaves, or poor blooming, a slow-release fertilizer can help.

When to Fertilize

Early spring or late fall. Don’t apply fertilizer during a drought or heat wave. You’re more likely to burn the roots than help them.

What to Use

Use a product made specifically for trees and shrubs. Don’t use lawn fertilizer. It has too much nitrogen and can mess with growth patterns.

Don’t Overdo It

More isn’t better. Overfertilizing leads to excessive growth that the roots can’t support, and it attracts pests. Always follow the instructions.

Watch for Disease and Pests

You don’t have to be an arborist to notice when something’s wrong. Look for discolored leaves, odd spots, holes, oozing sap, peeling bark, or branches dying back from the tips. Those are signs of disease or insect problems.

Common Issues

Powdery mildew, aphids, scale, borers, leaf spot, cankers—all of these are common. Most can be treated if caught early. Some require removal if they’re advanced.

If you’re not sure, call someone who knows. Don’t spray random chemicals. That can hurt the plant or wipe out beneficial insects.

What Happens If You Ignore Maintenance

Things don’t get better on their own. They get worse. Overgrown trees develop weak branch structures and grow too close to structures or power lines. Shrubs become woody, sparse, and ugly. You get more pests. More disease. More hazards. And when something big fails, the damage is expensive—sometimes dangerous.

Tree removals, stump grinding, sidewalk repairs—that stuff adds up. A few hours a year of proper care avoids most of it.

When to Call a Professional

Some things you can handle yourself. Pruning small branches. Mulching. Watering. Spotting problems. But here’s when you call in a pro:

-Tree limbs near buildings or wires

-Large branches that require climbing or special tools

-Trees showing signs of decline or root problems

-Trees with fungus, hollows, or cracks in the trunk

-Shrubs that need to be reshaped after years of neglect

Professionals have the tools, insurance, and experience to handle it safely. And more importantly, they can spot long-term issues you might miss.

Quick Seasonal Checklist

Here’s the no-nonsense version.

Spring – Prune where needed (unless it’s a spring bloomer), fertilize if necessary, check for winter damage, clean up debris, refresh mulch
Summer – Water deeply during dry spells, inspect for pests or disease, light cleanup pruning if needed
Fall – Rake up leaf litter, inspect for structural problems, light pruning, mulch before winter
Winter – Dormant pruning for structure, look for broken or risky limbs after storms

Tree and Shrub Care – Let a Pro Help

Tree and shrub care isn’t complicated. But it does need to be consistent. Small efforts—done at the right time—make a huge difference. Skip it and you’ll pay for it later. Handle it right, and your trees will last decades longer, look better, and cost you way less over time.

If you’re not sure where to start or what you’re looking at, find someone local who knows what they’re doing. Tree Pros HQ lists tree care companies across the country. That’s a good place to look when you need real help from people who deal with this stuff every day.